(An alternative view I have lightly edited, to sanitise it. Published to provoke thought rather than to endorse it)
Stonehenge has long been a symbol of mystery, power, and timelessness. For centuries, it was a place where the rhythms of human life—high and low—intersected with the land. The upper classes once roamed its windswept expanse, their horses pounding the earth in pursuit of quarry, engaged in the aristocratic pastimes of hunting, shooting and racing. The lower classes, meanwhile, were no strangers to its shadows, tending flocks as shepherds or poaching his Lordship’s game in a gritty, unglamorous symbiosis with the elite. And more recently there were the great unwashed—those raucous, unruly souls who gathered at the stones for festivals, their revelry a raw, earthy counterpoint to the refined pursuits of their betters. Even the forces of Law were still Reganesque, as in Jack of The Sweeney rather Ronnie. Stonehenge was a crossroads, a place where the baser ends of the spectrum of humanity collided in all their messy, vibrant glory.
But that Stonehenge is gone. What stands today is a
sanitized relic, a victim of the creeping, prissy gentrification that has
claimed so much of Britain’s wild heritage. The monument, once a living stage
for the dramas of class and culture, has been tidied up and repackaged as a
playground for the middle classes—a cohort whose sensibilities have smothered
its spirit under a blanket of self-conscious decorum. Where once the air rang
with the cries of hounds and the laughter of festival-goers, now it hums with
the polite chatter of tourists and the rustle of Gore-Tex jackets. Stonehenge, a site that once bore witness to
the raw pulse of life, has been reduced to a backdrop for Instagram posts and
heritage gift shopping.
This transformation is not merely a matter of changing
demographics; it’s a profound loss of ambience. The upper classes, with their
blood sports and aristocratic swagger, brought a kind of brutal elegance to the
place—a connection to the land that was visceral, if elitist. The shepherds and
hunt followers, meanwhile, grounded it in the toil and tenacity of working
life, their presence a reminder of the gritty interdependence between man and
nature. Even the festival-going rabble, with their chaotic energy, infused
Stonehenge with a primal vitality that echoed its ancient, unknowable origins.
Together, these groups—disparate as they were—wove a tapestry of human
experience that felt authentic to the stones’ enigmatic presence.
Contrast that with today’s visitors. The middle-class
takeover has imposed a sterile orderliness on Stonehenge, stripping away its
wildness and replacing it with a curated, consumer-friendly experience. At the
solstices the few, the precious few, authentic druids and survivors of the
festivals are outnumbered by the Boden tribes and Trustafarians draped in
faux-druidic robes, performing their earnest, awkward rituals with all the
authenticity of a corporate team-building exercise.
The tourists,
meanwhile, arrive in droves, shepherded by audio guides and cordoned off from
the stones themselves, their engagement limited to snapping photos and ticking
a box on their cultural to-do lists. The site has become a commodity, its edges
softened, and its mysteries shrink-wrapped for mass consumption.
This gentrification mirrors broader trends in modern
Britain, where the rough edges of history and tradition are sanded down to suit
a middle-class aesthetic. Stonehenge is no longer a place of spontaneity or
struggle; it’s a heritage site, a sanitized monument preserved not for its
living legacy but for its marketability. The upper classes have retreated to
their estates, the working classes have been priced out or pushed aside, and
the great unwashed have been replaced by a polite, paying public. What’s left
is a hollowed-out shell—a Stonehenge that looks the part but feels like a theme
park.
To mourn this change is not to romanticize the past
uncritically. The old ways were not idyllic; they were unequal, often harsh,
and steeped in their own contradictions. But they were real. They carried the
weight of human experience—its triumphs, its cruelties, its joys—in a way that
today’s manicured version does not. Stonehenge once stood as a testament to the
untamed complexity of life; now it’s a stage for performative reverence and
shallow tourism. The prissy gentrification of the middle classes has not
elevated it—it has diminished it, turning a place of raw power into a polite
curiosity. And in doing so, it has spoiled something irreplaceable.
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